I’m still wearing a face mask everywhere I go. It’s a sign of the strange times we live in. I haven’t made a new face mask in months but I wanted to make one I found easier to put on (elastic instead of cloth ties) and I wanted to make a few for holiday gifts to go with the small tote bags I’ve been making (see https://quiltingbydiana.com/small-tote-bag-experiments-and-tutorial/ for details).
When I first started making face masks I bought two Accuquilt dies to make the cutting easier. One was in three pieces so it didn’t seem likely to be the simple design I was looking for. I tried the other one, first the outer layer and then, when that was way too big, the inner layer. Didn’t like the fit of that either. So I tried the center piece of the three piece design and that was way too small.
Next I started searching online for free designs I could try out. I tried three different designs before I found one I liked and that I could make using a simple technique. Here are the results of the experiments.
I tried the technique she described and it seemed more complicated than I needed. So I wrote up the technique I used for this design and pattern. There is a download link in the document window and below it.
Update 11/14/2021: I found that I really like using stabilizer instead of batting for these small tote bags so I updated the tutorial to reflect that.
I decided I wanted to make a smaller version of my full-size tote bag. Below are the results of the experiments I did, numbered as I went through them. The final bag is 8 inches tall by 7-1/2 inches wide by 4 inches deep. This compares to my larger tote bag which is 16 inches tall by 16 inches wide by 3 inches deep.
Experiment 1
I started with a 10 inch by 8 inch paper tote I had as a guide and used the same technique as I had used on my larger tote bag, just on a smaller scale.
I liked that the bag stood up on its own and keep its shape. I did not like:
The exposed seams. They stand out a lot more in the smaller tote.
The binding on the top. It seems like overkill on the smaller tote.
The straps were 4 layers of fabric (like double fold bias tape) but they still seemed floppy to me.
Experiment 2
Reduced the depth of the bag.
Used interfacing in the straps.
Used the inside out method for stitching the bag and lining together instead of quilting them together like I do in my larger tote bag.
Used batting on the outer body of the bag but no interfacing.
I liked the more streamlined inside (no exposed seams) and top (no binding). I did not like:
Because the batting was attached to the outside, the lining was floppy and didn’t look good.
Although the depth is better, the bag seems kind of tall to be a small tote bag.
Experiment 3
Decided to try all one piece instead of side and bottom panels.
Shortened the bag a bit.
Attached the batting to the lining instead of the body.
It was much easier to put the bag together without the side and bottom panels. And the lining looked much tidier. However…
I did not like the less structured look on the outside.
I prefer the look of the different color on the side panels.
Experiment 4
Went back to the side and bottom panels.
Made it a teeny bit shorter to make less fabric waste during cutting.
I am happy with the look and structure. However, it now seems too deep on the sides.
Experiment 5
Bingo! I realized that I didn’t need to change the height so it’s back up 1/2 inch taller and I reduced the depth a bit more. I am very happy with the look and feel of this bag.
I decided to change the name of my blog to Sewing by Diana since I’m going to be making lots of things besides quilts. I still love making quilts but have been feeling the need to make other things, like tote bags and clothing. Both quiltingbydiana.com and sewingbydiana.com will work to get there.
For my first experiment in making clothing, I decided to make a sleeveless top. Seemed like the simplest place to start.
Make a Pattern
The first thing I did was take a top that I know fits me and trace around it onto Swedish Tracing Paper. I saw this paper recommended in a video I watched and it is perfect for making your own patterns. It marks well, drapes well, and holds up even after multiple changes.
I folded the top in half, laid it down flat, and marked the bottom, sides, shoulder, and neckline for the front. Then I turned it over and did the same for the back.
Then I cut out the pattern I traced and wrote the piece type, the pattern name, how many to cut, and noted where to place on the fabric fold for cutting.
Try It Out
Then I tried making a sample garment to see whether it fit. Well, not so much 🙂. So I made some adjustments to the pattern and tried again. Much better this time although not perfect. I kept making adjustments on my pattern on my second sample garment until it fit reasonably well. I also added the neck and armhole facings to make sure they worked as I thought they would. Fortunately I did a lot of garment making when I was in my teens so I knew how things should go together.
Here is the second sample garment I made, with lots of experiments on it.
Use Fabric I Would Want to Wear
Once I was satisfied that I had made the adjustments to the pattern that I needed, I decided to try the pattern out with fabric I would want to wear. It came out pretty well but I decided that the side vents needed to be a bit longer for comfort, especially sitting down.
A More Interesting Design
I made the vent changes on the pattern and decided to try something more interesting.
I sewed 8 different 2-1/2 wide by width of fabric strips. I used the overlocking stitch on my sewing machine to sew them together and it worked really well. I didn’t want the seams to fray over time and I think this will definitely help.
I cut across the halfway point of the strips to make 2 equal sized sections, which I sewed together along the vertical direction of the strips.
On the front piece, I marked across the pattern at the bottom of the armhole on the pattern to mark a yoke.
I cut the panel I created using the pattern with the yoke folded down, allowing for a seam.
Next I cut a yoke piece using the top part of the pattern, allowing for a seam.
I did the same for the back of the top.
Finally put the top together the same way as before.
Here is what my front pattern ended up looking like with all the adjustments and the yoke marking.
And here are the facing pieces.
Overall I’m really happy with how this top came out. I’m definitely going to continue with garment making.
